Hi all,

Do you have some recommendations for a soldering station that would meet my needs?

I’ve been into hobby electronics for a few years, doing mostly analog audio projects but recently got into repairing and repurposing broken electronics (Bluetooth earbuds, speakers, USB cables and such).

I’ve been using a cheap Parkside(LIDL)-rebranded “generic Chinese product” (I came across the exact same model on AliExpress, in different colors); which has served me well until now but has a few flaws that I can’t be bothered with anymore. Mainly: -it takes ages to get hot. -the cable going from the station to the iron is super thick and stiff, which is annoying as hell…

I would like it to be the least expensive possible, while being good enough I’d be happy with it for the foreseeable future.

I have been looking at these:

Old tech, cheap tips (<1€)

Newer tech, “expensive” tips (8-10€)

And wondering how these “newer” types of iron compare to stations, what are the main drawbacks?

Thanks a lot in advance for any input, Please be gentle if you think I’m an idiot :)

Edit: changed the “Smolderin” in title to “soldering”

  • Thorry84@feddit.nlEnglish
    0·
    3 days ago

    I’ve used my old Aoyue 968A+ rework station for 10+ (maybe going on 15, not sure) years now and I’m very happy with it. It has excellent power in a comfortable grip with standard tips so you can switch around easily enough (although I just have a small point tip which is a good allrounder). It has enough power to deal with floodfill and ground planes without crashing the temperature, but still enough control to not overshoot and go way too hot.

    It has fume extraction, but that’s kinda weak, they just added it because they could I guess. The suction bit can get in the way, but it’s easily removed when it does.

    The best part is it also has an excellent SMD rework hot air, again with a comfortable grip and lots of tips included. It’s easily adjustable in both temperature and airflow. I use it to pre-heat (and add heat) when soldering large components, for example on old retro motherboards. This way I can get away with lower temperatures when desoldering stuff, preventing lifting pads or damaging traces. It works great for SMD as well, but for larger PCBs I combine it with a cheap hotplate I modified to pre-heat the PCB.

    It’s Chinese made, but made well, more of a high-end Chinese model and is easily gotten for around $150. I’ve used it for thousands of hours and it has never let me down.

    • MacAnus@sh.itjust.worksOPEnglish
      0·
      3 days ago

      Hmmmm I wasn’t thinking of getting hot air which I’ve never used, but could be worth getting for the future.

      Can you completely remove the suction bit and cable?

      Thanks for your input!

      • Thorry84@feddit.nlEnglish
        0·
        3 days ago

        Yes you can very easily remove the suction bit and the cable. I always leave it unless it gets in the way, it sucks pretty good. When it gets in the way I remove the bit only, which is super easy to do and leave the cable so I can put the suction back again. Just don’t expect it to be a replacement for an actual good fume extractor, I always use both a dedicated extractor as well as the ventilation in my office/electric workstation. Breathing solder fumes is pretty bad in the long term.