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Joined 2 years ago
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Cake day: June 12th, 2023

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  • Are you worried about the cabinets or the drawers themselves?

    For the drawers, I used a wide scrap to set the height (and level) of the top slide, then another for the 2nd and cut it down for the 3rd. The bottom one is well, on the bottom.

    For the cabinets, the sides were luckily enough the width of the standard sheet of plywood. I built the toekick as a separate unit (out of 2x4s, and I should have used plywood because even my straightest 2x4s were … not). I set the cabinets on the toekick in place and got lucky with level, but the toekick rocked a solid ⅜in (9.5mm). so I flipped the cabinet to apply the same weight and offer an access to the toekick and screwed another chunk of 2x4 to the toekick on the floor. Then I screwed the cabinets to the wall (using a magnetic “stud finder” (stud buddy) because I’m lucky enough to have drywall screws to locate studs) using some shims to level against the wall (solid ¾in/19mm bow in the middle).


  • I started by attempting to screw the cabinets together, but this cheap birch split immediately even with pilot holes (you can see the blowout that settled the matter on the right side of the stretcher on the left cabinet).

    I immediately ordered a massca pocket hole jig.

    It worked great, but between the wood and the bit it came with, there was a lot of raggedy tear out even when taking multiple shallow plunges.

    On the drawers, I started with glue and brads with the narrow stack, following the simple method I saw in several videos (hat tip to bourbon moth on youtube for convincing me I could do this), cutting off the entire dado on the back piece. The ¼in drawer bottoms were definitely too flimsy for that method on the wide drawers, so I notched the corners for the slides and used pocket holes so I could still remove the bottom if the crappy lauan fails.

    I really gotta find a better lumber place for the next project.