InEnduringGrowStrong@sh.itjust.works

For anything important, use matrix instead of lemmy DMs.

  • 4 Posts
  • 16 Comments
Joined 2 years ago
Cake day: June 22nd, 2023
  • InEnduringGrowStrong@sh.itjust.works@sh.itjust.workstoSteam Deck@sopuli.xyz•Micro SD card suggestions
    0·
    13 hours ago

    So, the SD Association is absolutely fucking insane when it comes to giving labels to literally anything.

    The Steam Deck supports UHS-1 microSD cards.
    That’s the name of the bus. There’salso UHS-2 and UHS-3, but they’re backwards compatible with UHS-1, so that’s whatever.

    Speeds…
    Some cards used speed “classes”, like Class 10…
    There’s also U1 or U3 speeds (which is a speed rating independent of the bus. (A U3 cards is probably a UHS-1 card.
    Some have a speed rated with a V, like V10, V30, etc.
    They often have multiple labels too.
    These can all be used to label the speed of a UHS-1 card:
    UHS Speed Class

    • U1: 10 MB/s minimum write speed.
    • U3: 30 MB/s minimum write speed.

    Video Speed Class

    • V6: 6 MB/s minimum write speed.
    • V10: 10 MB/s minimum write speed.
    • V30: 30 MB/s minimum write speed.
    • V60: 60 MB/s minimum write speed.
    • V90: 90 MB/s minimum write speed.

    Class 10

    • Class 10: 10 MB/s minimum write speed (legacy).

    Anyway, U3 is basically the same as a V30.
    U3/V30 would be the minimum I’d get for the Deck. Price being the deciding factor for the rest.
    I don’t really care if the card ever fails, so brand was (mostly) irrelevant in my choice.

  • InEnduringGrowStrong@sh.itjust.works@sh.itjust.workstonetworking@sh.itjust.works•Automating pfsense interface up/down?English
    0·
    1 day ago

    Also, if you’re using anything with a static IP, monitoring the DHCP obviously won’t work.
    If you got any of those, I’d recommend doing a static DHCP reservation, where the host is still using DHCP, but always gets the same IP.
    I’m not sure how these are handled in regards to the commits hook though.
    Maybe monitoring the ARP table can be useful to you depending on your use case, but then that’s back to a “polling” scenario instead of being event based.
    Actually you could have multiple triggers:

    • Event based hook from the DHCP
    • Polling the ARP table or even pinging a specific static host that isn’t DHCP compatible
    • microphone based detection: When someone in your household yells that it doesn’t work again, bring it up.

    Anyway, calling it from the hook or cronjob kinda becomes an “or” condition for bringing it up: Any one host brings it up, regardless of how you detect them.

    But then you likely still need an “and” condition when bringing it down: All conditions/hosts must be down for a period of time to bring it down.

    Also consider future troubleshooting. Maybe having some sort of toggle to force it up (and disable the wgdown scripts) if only for confirming an hypothesis during a future problem.

    Have fun

  • InEnduringGrowStrong@sh.itjust.works@sh.itjust.workstonetworking@sh.itjust.works•Automating pfsense interface up/down?English
    0·
    2 days ago

    The thing with a cron job is that it would likely be every minute at best.
    If I connect at 20:25:01 and I have to wait 59 seconds for the next cron pass, it’ll probably be noticeable and annoying.

    I haven’t done pfsense in a while but it shouldn’t be too complicated.
    I think they still use ISC DHCP? If so, I vaguely remember you could use hooks or something event based instead of checking for leases every x time.
    Something like this in dhcpd.conf:

    on commit {
  execute("/path/to/wg-up.sh")

    Now… bringing it down is generally less “urgent” and a cron job that checks the number of leases would be fine. Being more instantaneous in bringing it up but taking your time to bring in down would be beneficial and introduce some sort of hysteresis so it flaps less.

  • InEnduringGrowStrong@sh.itjust.works@sh.itjust.workstoAsklemmy@lemmy.ml•How much of an asshole is your washing machine/dryer?
    1·
    5 days ago

    Fuck modern appliances.
    I’m lucky enough to have bought both washer/dryer almost 20 years ago. Both of 'em for $600 at Future Shop, which now ironically only exists in the past.

    I never really think about these appliances, which is the nice part that I realky love about them.
    They don’t remind me they exist with beeps or phone notifications. They just do their thing.
    Anyway, the washer is an old, cheap top loader, that can also periodically be used to tamp the soil beneath your foundation to make sure your house is stable. You activate that feature by bunching the bed sheets all wrong on the same side of the drum.
    That’s a nice feature that’s been deprecated in newer models.
    It’s an overall easy model to repair because it’s mostly just an oversized salad spinner with 2 water valves and a pump.
    The dryer is like the quiet nephew that you like but never hear much about, nothing much to say really, but it works.

    Anyway.
    When the temperature dial on the washer broke 15 years ago, there was no way I was paying $90 to buy some complicated part that would break again.
    So I just removed the knob and twisted the stranded wires to a dumb switch that you could reach by putting your finger in the knob hole as a proof of concept, left for the cold valve, right for hot. Sketchy? Sure. Warm? I don’t know? Use a bit of both, or whatever.
    I never even got around to actually solder it, which is weird because I’ve soldered lots of electronics. It worked, I guess I forgot, so whatever.

    Until it stopped working a few months ago, having finally shaken itself loose and I opened it up again, only then realizing I didn’t solder it way back then. Oops.
    This time, I ordered a proper 3 position rotary switch, which I did solder. Left for the cold valve, right for the hot valve, and amazingly: middle for both, which is how warm water is made.
    I also 3d printed a knob to fit the new switch.
    Fancy right? but my last repair is still nowhere near as complicated as the original broken part was and we still only ever use the cold water setting.

    Now, it turns out the reason the original part is complicated and expensive is that in normal washers, the temperature selection thingy only ever changes the washing temperature and not the rinsing temperature.
    This means which valve needs to open has to change depending on where it is in the wash cycle, thus the more complicated part.

    Anyway, technically, my washer now has more features than before it broke in the sense that we could theoretically now rinse with hot or warm water, which y’all plebs probably can’t. Not that we ever use anything but the cold setting, but we could and you can’t.

    The dryer? It has just kept working.
    Now and then we’d feed it something wrong like a bunch of loose balls from an old bearing that was sitting in a pant pocket or a set of lockpicks or whatever and I take the back panel apart to retrieve the stuff stuck in the back elbow somewhere. When that happens, I also vacuum the lint that is stuck in this quantum realm of not being caught in the lint filter, but also not expelled out, just caught in that same hungry void elbow.

    Both have no music, no tunes, no beeps, no capacitive buttons that you don’t quite know if you pressed or not, no lockout, although there’s a safety switch that stops the drum from turning if you open the lid. No wifi, no app, no mold.
    There’s no soap dispenser, although I do have a peristaltic pump and tubing so I could easily enough just drop that in a jug of liquid detergent and time how much to use… but… we prefer powder detergent anyway because shipping water around is just dumb when I can get the same shit in concentrated powder and add water myself, which washing machines conveniently already do.
    A bucket of the stuff lasts several years too.

    They’re old and all that, but these things keep on doing what they’re made for while friends have gone through 3-4 sets in the same time line.

    Fuck modern appliances.

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