NFS Most Wanted, the original, is fantastic, though it requires manual installation as it’s not on Steam.
Sadly the redux modpack version is just a bit too heavy as it includes a bunch of shaders and stuff you can’t disable. It runs, but you get maybe two hours. Vanilla barely taxes the deck.
But only hackers and cheaters use Linux, didn’t you know???
In our efforts to combat cheating in Apex, we’ve identified Linux OS as being a path for a variety of impactful exploits and cheats. As a result, we’ve decided to block Linux OS access to the game. While this will impact a small number of Apex players, we believe the decision will meaningfully reduce instances of cheating in our game.
It’s also one of the only two requirements for the “Verified” label. Specifically, “the game must ship with a default configuration on Deck that results in a playable framerate.” That’s literally the only thing about performance in the entire process, the rest is all UI and usability stuff.
Default to low and get a playable framerate - whatever that means - and you can get your game verified.
Link only streamed.
This is a Steam TV.
BT 5 has max bandwidth of 2Mbps, which would in theory be enough for “CD quality”, i.e 44.1khz/16 bit raw uncompressed audio, as that’s around 1.4Mbps. In real life conditions it isn’t. AFAIK aptX lossless gets close by doing some compression.
But if you go full audiophile levels and start demanding lossless 192khz 24 bit audio, that’s 10Mbps and not even remotely possible over BT no matter what you’d try.
CE mark is often self-approved, it is neither an actual certification nor is there a process or money required. It’s simply a promise from the manufacturer that the product “conforms with European health, safety, and environmental protection standards.”
It either does that and they can put a CE mark on it, or it doesn’t and that product is never going to be available in the EU as-is.
Graphics are graphics, that’s what limits most of the games and devices. Optimize something to run on the Switch 2, and that should work on the Deck too.
That benchmark used to be the PS4, but most developers have dropped support for last gen hardware.
Few things:
The Deck can’t support 65W charging either. It prefers, and maxes out, at a 45W charge, specifically 15V@3A. It can charge using 12/9/5V standards as well, but obviously does so slower.
5V charging is only recommended while the deck is off/sleeping as there is a batch with bad charging chips that can overheat and burn out otherwise (as it has to boost the 5V up to 7.4V and above for the battery)
Slower chargers still work even while gaming - they just extend the time it takes to drain.
If a powebank advertises mAh, it’s using the nominal voltage of a single lithium cell, 3.6 or 3.7V. If they use Wh (and aren’t blatant scams), then that’s the only thing that matters. What you get out is always less, due to the conversion losses.
LCD has a 40Wh battery, OLED has 50Wh. Get at least 20% more if you truly want a full charge.
The deck has power passthrough, once it’s full it uses the charger only. Sometimes this means it “refuses” to charge to 100% and instead stops just shy, that’s kinda normal.
For my smol hands, the Skull & co back button extensions.
There’s also the version with examples if you want to know exactly what and why it breaks.
And the git that collects all of these in one place, if you want to really nerd out.
It will make it look more fluid. It will feel like it’s running at a lower framerate, and at the framerates BG3 runs at on the Deck, around 25fps or 40ms per frame, the increase would be quite noticeable.