How difficult was it getting the blood and tissue of them?
Are you from Ravenholm, perchance?
We don’t go there anymore.
I saw what you did there.
He simply cut to the chase.
Two of them go clockwise, while the other two go counterclockwise. Now that you know this, you too can be mildly infuriated about it.
You’re welcome.
This comment cuts both ways.
This is done deliberately to keep the rack balanced.
They don’t look dull at all
You should have been more careful while washing them, I think you ever so lightly chipped a few of your dishes. I think I can even see a couple with tiny holes in them. Too bad.
What kind of food can you have on a plate with a hole in the middle?!
A donut?
Doughnuts and bagels.
Are you Finnish? I know it’s standard in Finland to have a drying cupboard above the sink.
TIL some kitchen don’t have ruck abovе the sink
In Russia I never see a kitchen sink without it
I believe it’s a nordic thing more broadly, but yes.
It’s brilliant! I have a tiny kitchen and this would work perfectly for me.
They sell these in IKEA I believe.
I have washed rifle and pistol brass in the clothes washer to clean them. I wouldn’t do that in the dishwasher though.
You know about knives rusting in the dishwasher? Well…
And that’s why normal people buy stainless steel knives these days. It’s only masochists that look for carbon steel kitchen knives anymore.
I haven’t quite kicked the cast iron frying pans and dutch ovens I have or my carbon steel wok yet either.
Stainless steel should not be put in the dishwasher either. A knife shouldn’t even be left wet/dirty in the first place - that alone is enough to dull it over time.
Commercial kitchens, like my wife, run their knives through dishwashers all the time. But, like me, they buy stainless alloy knives like 1.4116 that can take that abuse. If your stainless steel knives are showing surface rust, (and that’s all it is), then it’s a higher carbon alloy to give it better edge retention rather than corrosion resistance. And that’s a personal choice you make.
As far as dulling goes, why so afraid of sharpening a knife? I prefer alloys that allow me to quickly and easily touch up an edge because it rolled vs chipped like to many high end knives are prone to doing.
The only reason I don’t put cast into the dishwasher is the detergent is strong enough to strip the seasoning.
Otherwise you can’t hurt cast. Look at the derelict steam train engines - it takes forever for them to rust away.
People get too wound up about seasoning cast iron.
What carbon steel? No, like, fruit knive, butcher knive, from reputable manufacturers (Victorinox, Kuhn Rikon) made of chromium steel, AUS-10. A knive is always a compromise between flexibility (brittleness), hardnes (sharpness) and chemical resistance. While a dishwasher with soap and drying program is literally hell for knives. Modern knives are alloyed for this very reason, but as soon as it has a weakness due to wear somewhere, the dishwasher gets them rusty.
Ok, class time. Let’s set some basic terms and rules.
I spent many years as a toolmaker. I designed and built industrial cutting tools for a living. And there are only 2 rules you need to follow for any cutting tool. Rule 1. your cutting tool needs to be harder than what you intend to cut, pretty obvious right? Rule 2. the tool only needs to last long enough to get the job done. If it’s only one cut, then that’s the requirement. if it’s 10,000 cuts, that is a different requirement. Anything beyond that is just, well gravy and accessories.
What you are calling ‘flexibility’ is better referred to as toughness. A trait than can encompass flexibility, impact resistance, and even corrosion resistance.
Hardness and ‘sharpness’ is a “it depends” quality. A material doesn’t need to be very hard to to cut something. And ‘sharpness’ is a subjective term. Sharp compared to what? A piece of paper isn’t very hard, yet it can be sharp enough to cut you. And a diamond is really, really hard, but unless highly modified isn’t sharp enough to cut you in it’s natural state. Very generally, the harder a tool is, the longer it can hold it’s edge and the more brittle it will be.
Most kitchen cutlery manufacturers use stainless steel alloys that value corrosion resistance over hardness. Some don’t, but most do. And while Victorinox is very mum about the exact alloy used in their cook’s knife, but it’s very similar to 1.4116. A very corrosion resistant stainless. Your AUS-10 can contain over twice the carbon than the 1.4116 alloy. And it’s that extra carbon that not only allows AUS-10 to hold it’s edge a lot longer but it’s also responsible for that irritating surface rust that can show on up after you put it in the dishwasher. A 1.4116 stainless can be pretty much tossed randomly into the dishwasher everyday and never show that rust. And my wife proves it nearly every day when she does exactly that. But due the having only about half the carbon content, 1.4116 stainless will not hold it’s edge nearly as long as AUS-10.
Personally, I choose more corrosion resistant knives over better edge retention in my kitchen for 2 reasons. One, after 40 years I know my wife WILL toss any and all knives into the dishwasher no matter what I say. So, not worth the argument. And two, unlike many people, I have no fear of sharpening my knives. And a stainless like 1.4116 allows me to have a high corrosion resistant knife that can be tossed into the dishwasher every day and still be quickly and easily sharpened in less than 5 minutes.
At this boat I worked at almost 20 years ago we had this huge but spent circular saw blade in the backdeck workshop. We used it to keep the lunch warm: a few minutes with a heat gun and it was excellent for pizza. Then we didn’t have to go all the way in to the galley (which involved getting out of work gear) for a snack.
Circular reasoning
“You are not soppose to take a shit were you eat”
What’d you use and how well did it work?
I’ve used a household cleaning/degreasing concentrate that works well, and CMT orange cleaning spray. They both work well enough, but each have drawbacks. The household cleaner is liquid and I need to soak in a tray by the sink which takes time. The CMT spray doesn’t need to be rinsed so I can clean a blade in the garage, but it does need to be wiped, and takes a longer soak. Doesn’t feel as effective.
I used pine oil soap mixed with hot water and let them sit in a strong solution for a few hours and then gave a once-over with a stiff nylon brush. I haven’t tried that before but it works with paint brushes so I figured I’d give it a go. Brushes I let soak for days, though. Worked alright - it removed roughly 92% of it.
I washed the wheels on my office chair they’re where getting dirty and full of crumbs
