It’s hard to characterize in a single sentence, so I’ll just break it down into its constituent parts.

The Beep

When the laundry cycle finishes it does the following:

  • It beeps super loudly for 5 seconds
  • If you don’t run to switch it off, it will wait 30 more seconds and then continue to beep super loudly for 5 seconds
  • If you switch it off whilst it’s beeping, it will continue to finish its beeping
  • There is no volume setting nor any way to switch this off.

The Door

When it’s finished. It does not release. That beeping sound from earlier to tell you to come get your laundry? No no no, that was just the “come and watch me drain” alarm.

  • Switching it off has no effect on the door release.
  • It releases whenever it wants. It could be 5 minutes, it could be 20.
  • When it does release, all you will get is a <clunk> sound, so you better be around to hear it.
  • If you miss this sound, it will lock itself again 10-15 minutes later and rotate your clothes.
  • It will then repeat the release process.

HELP ME. HE-ELP ME.

  • Ghost (he/any)@beehaw.org
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    2 days ago

    Mine opens with the long press of a button.

    But my beep gives me a different problem, I never hear it. Imagine a shy introvert whispering, “Excuse me, if it isn’t any trouble, would you please kindly move your laundry?” From across the apartment behind several closed doors.

    The end result is me nerotically checking it, and sometimes it just refused to end. Like the timer says some amount of time and nothing is happening. If I open it, the display sheepishly flashes CL, which I assume means clean and not clear.

  • Akasazh@feddit.nl
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    3 days ago

    I just bought new ones, to be delivered tomorrow.

    So i hope they aren’t much assholey yet.

    • ulterno@programming.dev
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      3 days ago

      Just hope that your new one now does not require a Wi-Fi connection and automatic software updates, which will inevitably lead to the company bricking your device 10 years down the line.

  • lemming741@lemmy.world
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    3 days ago

    The door locks are often wax motors, which extend pretty quick when heated but have to cool off to release. The re-lock sounds like a huge wtf. Couldn’t they just limit the tumble rpm so they don’t have to lock?

    I ditched my front load petri dish for a 10 year old Speed Queen top loader off marketplace. No regerts.

  • vaionko@sopuli.xyz
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    3 days ago

    Not very annoying at all. Does a little jingle when it’s turned on. Door unlocks when finished, no beeps. Instantly unlocks when paused too. Even can integrate into Home Assistant, but the manufacturer (Fuck you Haier) made it worse for no real reason.

  • dafo@lemmy.world
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    4 days ago

    We have/had a combination machine from Whirlpool which we got in 2019. It was fairly cheap, I don’t remember exactly, but somewhere €600 on a sale.

    I’ve replaced the heater element twice. The shock absorbers twice, because as I was installing a new one the threads stripped immediately. I’ve replaced the drain pump once. Now it’s been sitting unused for a month, rusting because the heater element has broken once again.

    Good thing we’ve got a shared laundry room in our apartment complex!

  • Captain Aggravated@sh.itjust.works
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    4 days ago

    I have a Kenmore 80 Series washer and dryer set. There’s a knob on the control panels to turn the buzzer off. It runs until it’s finished. There is no lid lock, the washer is top-loading. The drum brake is a bit loud these days, should probably look into that. And it’s probably about time to clean out the dryer’s vent, the dull men’s club will enjoy that.

  • jawa21@lemmy.sdf.org
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    5 days ago

    My dryer is a Kenmore from the 80s. It is incredibly loud, and I have to push it back in place after every load. It has never broken, though.

  • Fuck modern appliances.
    I’m lucky enough to have bought both washer/dryer almost 20 years ago. Both of 'em for $600 at Future Shop, which now ironically only exists in the past.

    I never really think about these appliances, which is the nice part that I realky love about them.
    They don’t remind me they exist with beeps or phone notifications. They just do their thing.
    Anyway, the washer is an old, cheap top loader, that can also periodically be used to tamp the soil beneath your foundation to make sure your house is stable. You activate that feature by bunching the bed sheets all wrong on the same side of the drum.
    That’s a nice feature that’s been deprecated in newer models.
    It’s an overall easy model to repair because it’s mostly just an oversized salad spinner with 2 water valves and a pump.
    The dryer is like the quiet nephew that you like but never hear much about, nothing much to say really, but it works.

    Anyway.
    When the temperature dial on the washer broke 15 years ago, there was no way I was paying $90 to buy some complicated part that would break again.
    So I just removed the knob and twisted the stranded wires to a dumb switch that you could reach by putting your finger in the knob hole as a proof of concept, left for the cold valve, right for hot. Sketchy? Sure. Warm? I don’t know? Use a bit of both, or whatever.
    I never even got around to actually solder it, which is weird because I’ve soldered lots of electronics. It worked, I guess I forgot, so whatever.

    Until it stopped working a few months ago, having finally shaken itself loose and I opened it up again, only then realizing I didn’t solder it way back then. Oops.
    This time, I ordered a proper 3 position rotary switch, which I did solder. Left for the cold valve, right for the hot valve, and amazingly: middle for both, which is how warm water is made.
    I also 3d printed a knob to fit the new switch.
    Fancy right? but my last repair is still nowhere near as complicated as the original broken part was and we still only ever use the cold water setting.

    Now, it turns out the reason the original part is complicated and expensive is that in normal washers, the temperature selection thingy only ever changes the washing temperature and not the rinsing temperature.
    This means which valve needs to open has to change depending on where it is in the wash cycle, thus the more complicated part.

    Anyway, technically, my washer now has more features than before it broke in the sense that we could theoretically now rinse with hot or warm water, which y’all plebs probably can’t. Not that we ever use anything but the cold setting, but we could and you can’t.

    The dryer? It has just kept working.
    Now and then we’d feed it something wrong like a bunch of loose balls from an old bearing that was sitting in a pant pocket or a set of lockpicks or whatever and I take the back panel apart to retrieve the stuff stuck in the back elbow somewhere. When that happens, I also vacuum the lint that is stuck in this quantum realm of not being caught in the lint filter, but also not expelled out, just caught in that same hungry void elbow.

    Both have no music, no tunes, no beeps, no capacitive buttons that you don’t quite know if you pressed or not, no lockout, although there’s a safety switch that stops the drum from turning if you open the lid. No wifi, no app, no mold.
    There’s no soap dispenser, although I do have a peristaltic pump and tubing so I could easily enough just drop that in a jug of liquid detergent and time how much to use… but… we prefer powder detergent anyway because shipping water around is just dumb when I can get the same shit in concentrated powder and add water myself, which washing machines conveniently already do.
    A bucket of the stuff lasts several years too.

    They’re old and all that, but these things keep on doing what they’re made for while friends have gone through 3-4 sets in the same time line.

    Fuck modern appliances.

  • ClassifiedPancake@discuss.tchncs.de
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    5 days ago

    My AEG has been running steadily for 15 years in my possession. It was used already when I got it. It’s a very simple one with no alarm, no display, not even a tiny one with a timer. Just a dial and a start button. The door sometimes needs an extra push to lock fully.

  • boydster@sh.itjust.works
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    5 days ago

    I took the buzzer off my dryer immediately once I heard it the first time. I don’t need that in my life. 10/10 would recommend to anyone that is even slightly annoyed with a laundry buzzer.

  • winni@lemmy.world
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    5 days ago

    ours is im the basement (rental apartment), quiet but likes to eat socks, the damn thing. I think electric plug is just carmouflage, it runs on socks

  • DigitalDilemma@lemmy.ml
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    5 days ago

    Why don’t they have proper ball-bearing bearings on the drum instead of just a bushing?

    I had to replace mine last week. Okay, it’s been a decade of zero maintenance, and the part only cost a tenner, but still - if this was a decent bearing it would be fine.

    • BCsven@lemmy.ca
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      5 days ago

      Assumptions: For the size a bearing can handle load better, and can be a self lubricating material. Ball bearings are small contact points, and a lot of off center vibration of the machine might wreck the ball bearing. Especially if it gets warm and grease runs out. So they would need to have a much larger ballbearing race like you see on industrial machinery, and the cost probably doesn’t justify it.

      My dryer seals broke this year, in replacing them I could see why they wore through. The back of drum wheels are just bearings (no balls), the weight of drum had the wheel bearings wear a wide groove in the support shafts so it shifted everything. And front has no bearings it just rides on the seal. I rotated/swapped them all around so they start with a fresh wear face and replaced a wheel. It should support itself better. Maybe we will get 5 more years out of it.

      • DigitalDilemma@lemmy.ml
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        5 days ago

        I personally think it’s down to cost and planned obsolescence. The bearing is so soft, it’s clearly sacrificial. There’s a lot of dust from the eroded part, and the spindle was still as new. Even though the part is cheap and fitting it is quick, most people wouldn’t know how - and calling someone out to do it would cost more than half the price of a replacement dryer.

        Can’t be heat - ball bearings, even just steel ones, are fitted to engines and car wheels. A dryer gets hot, but not that hot - and even if it did, ceramics are available. Same with diameter - if it’s too small you just increase the spinder size.

        • BCsven@lemmy.ca
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          5 days ago

          Yeah, main bearings on car, like crankshaft and cam are solid bearings and journals. Wheelbearings are a timpkin flat roller, I think, to support a lot of load and thrust. They are packed and sealed. But if it isn’t heat, then I would say the part size just gets big when you need an inner race (around shaft), bearings , then outer race, housed in a bracket. Lot cheaper for just the sacrificial part, till the wear like you show starts affecting other parts.

  • Mayor Poopington@lemmy.world
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    5 days ago

    Had an apartment with a washer that could wake up the dead. And of course, no alarm setting. Turns out, it was pretty easy to open the front plate and rip out the buzzer.

  • FourPacketsOfPeanuts@lemmy.world
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    5 days ago

    I had a washing machine that made audible chirps as you dialed through the programs and an irritating ditty whenever you engaged a program. It couldn’t be turned off. That was on a physical dial. But it also had flat touch buttons with no bevel or edge or tactile feedback - and these were always silent - so most of the time you didn’t know if you’d really pressed it or not. God. The first time I used it I was like… “what the fuck”. It was brand new in 2023. I cannot comprehend how someone can design, make, and program something so stupid.

  • kat_angstrom@lemmy.world
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    5 days ago

    Mine just throws a fit every decade or so, and stops generating heat.

    Also, it’s the most famous appliance in my house because a video on YouTube of me opening my dryer door has almost 500k views